How to Choose the Perfect Breed for You

You've decided that it's time to bring a dog into your life for the very first time and you have your heart set on a purebred dog. But you're not sure what type of dog best suits your lifestyle and training experience. So you do what many first time dog owners do: you search online for an interactive web-site that promises to find the breed that is perfectly suited for you. But... When you Google the phrase "Dog Breed Selector Quiz," it returns 16,700 results. And that's pretty daunting. How do you know which one to choose? Will it really give you the name of the breed of your dreams, just by answering a few questions?

Recently, I tested eight of these online quizzes to see what breeds they would recommend for me, given that I have years of experience working with dogs of all types, including those typically listed as "stubborn," "dominant," or "hard-to-train" and lead a fairly active life that allows plenty of exercise, training time, and attention for my dogs. Some of the quizzes were great, some were terrible, but the funny thing is that even the quizzes I liked didn't provide consistent breeds for me to consider.

My first try was DOG CHANNEL. The results included a rather large number of dog breeds as possibilities. For the inexperienced dog enthusiast, trying to sort through all of them could be confusing. All but one of the suggestions were breeds I would consider. Given my answers to the questions, they all made sense. There is an option to compare up to 4 breeds, side-by-side, which could be quite helpful.

Then I tried the DOG BREED INFO CENTER's quiz, which I really do not recommend. They omitted THE most important questions when choosing a breed: intelligence/trainability. Instead, they ask if the quiz taker is “able to control a dominating dog.” When I answered “yes,” to that questions, I was given a list of 4 dogs. When I answered that I wasn't sure if I could control a dominating dog, my list dropped to zero breeds.

I was surprised to find a quiz on the GOOD HOUSEKEEPING web-site. The questions are pretty well-thought out, but my answers resulted in a single breed... which I don't care for on a lot of levels.

SELECT SMART's quiz was my next stop. This is another quiz I wouldn't recommend. The top recommendation was to get a mixed breed dog, whose heritage contains multiple breeds on my recommended list. Despite stating a preference for very large dogs (90-105 pounds), 12 out of their top 25 recommended breeds were under 60 pounds. I also specified a desire for low maintenance grooming; 13 out of the 25 require frequent trimming or hand-stripping to maintain their coats in decent condition. There are a total of 4 breeds in their top 25 that I might consider, but none that truly fit my criteria.

DOGGIE DEALER's quiz was definitely more on-target than some of the others I tried, but there was no mention of intelligence/trainability. Provided with a list of 10 breeds, I would consider, perhaps, 5 of them.

CODE FROM JAMES's quiz provided a great mix of questions. Out of 11 recommended breeds, 6 of them made sense, given my responses.

PURINA's breed selector was a HUGE disappointment. According to their quiz, there is no dog breed that is right for me... even when I retook the quiz, leaving a lot of the questions wide open by responding “not sure.”

Finally I took the ANIMAL PLANET quiz. It consists of 10 well-designed questions, which resulted in 4 dog breeds that made sense, given my answers.

If you really want to do research online, my recommendation would be to use one of these quizzes (Dog, Channel, Code from James, or Animal Planet) as a starting point.

When you find a breed or breeds that interests you, check out The Encyclopedia of Dog Breeds by D. Caroline Coile, PhD to learn more about them, which may help you to narrow down your choices.

Next, I would visit the American Kennel Club's Index of National Breed Clubs to find the web-sites for the breeds' parent clubs. These sites usually offer a wealth of information on temperament and medical issues, as well as conformation.

That should help you get even closer to the dog you really want. Your next step should be to talk with people who own or breed these dogs. Attending dog shows, Agility, Obedience, or Rally Trials, or even striking up a conversation with an owner of a dog that interests you at the dog park will usually result in a plethora of good, blunt information. Ask about housebreaking, basic obedience training, grooming, medical bills, and any other question pertinent to your life.

It is important to be brutally honest with the person. Now is not the time to sugar coat things. If you're a couch potato, living with 3 children under the age of six, five cats, a ferret and you don't want to (or don't have time to) do much training or grooming, say so. Don't worry what the other person thinks about your lifestyle; she is only listening for the information that will help her decide whether her breed of choice is suitable for you.

If you're still unsure at this point, contact your local dog trainer, obedience club, dog sitter or dog walker. These people have usually seen it all: the good, the bad, and the ugly. And they are usually willing to advise you on making a final choice.

Staying Safe on New Year's Eve

My Service Dog, Mickey, is pretty much "bomb proof" in most situations... except when there are fireworks involved. I'm not much of a fan either. Since the booms and pops make Mickey nervous, I have to plan ahead for holidays when the neighbors or my municipality set off fireworks.

On the day before, the day of, and the day after the holiday, Mickey doesn't have off-leash privileges on our walks. That means no romps in the woods, through the fields, or along the canal. Even though he has a flawless recall, I'm not willing to take the chance that a firework will explode and startle him badly enough that he forgets his training.

We avoid walks during the late afternoon and evening hours. Although we've come across some people so anxious to set off their fireworks that they are doing it at midday, there's a much greater chance that displays will be held after the sun goes down.

I make sure that my contact information is easily visible on Mickey's collar. I love the Boomerang Pet Tags that fit right onto the collar, instead of dangling from a ring. Before I bought his Boomerang tag, he lost countless ID tags, romping through thick underbrush. Of course, Mickey has a HomeAgain microchip. This doesn't seem to be a terribly popular practice in my area yet, so I can't depend on someone finding him and checking for a 'chip to reunite us.

Once the sun goes down, Mickey stays inside except for quick potty breaks. Even though we have a fenced-in backyard, I accompany him when he goes outside and I show no reaction if a firework goes off while we're out, which seems to make him a little less nervous.

On occasions when our municipality schedules a fireworks display, I make sure that Mickey is wearing his Thundershirt and that he has access to my bedroom, which is dark, quiet, and equipped with his super-comfy dog bed.

I also make sure there's enough white noise in the house to block the noise from fireworks. In the summer, I run a fan. In the winter, a humidifier works just as well. I also play music from the Through a Dog's Ear CDs

Keeping Mickey comfortable during fireworks displays isn't nearly as much work as it seems. Making sure he isn't upset or afraid is definitely worth a bit of planning. After all, he takes such good care of me...

Wanna See What You Can Accomplish with Dog Training?

On January 7-8, 2012, Dayton Dog Training Club will be hosting an Obedience and Agility Trial at their facility in Moraine, OH. If you get a chance, head down there and watch these amazing, highly trained dogs in action.

A Great Alternative to Day-after-Xmas Bargain Shopping

This was the view as Mickey, Angie, Savannah, and I walked along the canal this afternoon. We turned the dogs loose to run and explore while we enjoyed the sunshine and 40+ degree temperatures. It was the perfect antidote to a long day of indulgent eating with little exercise.

My Favorite Mail Order Pet Supply Companies

Ryan's Pet Supplies
PROS: low prices, great selection, and prompt service.
CON: High shipping costs


Jeffers Pets
PROS: Decent prices, has unique items, prompt service
CONS: Haven't discovered any yet.

Karen Pryor Clickertraining Store
PROS: Low prices on some items, decent selection
CONS: Absolutely no customer service support, some products are not well made.


Petsmart
PROS: Large Selection and low shipping charges
CONS: Some items are over-priced and others are not well-made

Smartpak Canine
PROS: Great selection of non-frou-frou dog coats, competitive prices, option to order dog food portioned out for your dog's daily meals, complete with any supplements you may feed
CON: Ordering from Smartpak Canine gets you on the Smartpak Equine mailing list, leading to unwanted catalogues full of horse gear

Amazon
PROS: Wide variety of all things dog may be available through Amazon, including some hard to find items and free shipping for orders over $25.
CONS: Some items are sold through third-party companies; shipping on these items may not be as reliable as purchases shipped directly from Amazon and do not count toward free shipping.

Pet Flow
PROS: Wide variety of food, treats and other items for dogs and cats, including premium treats and foods that may not be available in some areas. In my experience, prices on items I order are comparable with local stores. Deliveries are made via Fed-Ex, so no dragging 30-pound bags of dog food from the car into the house. Free shipping, once a minimum order amount is reached. Automatic reorders, which make it hard to run out of necessities.
CONS: They do not charge Ohio sales tax; this is one more item to keep track of for tax returns.

Merry Xmas

Here in west central Ohio on Christmas morning, it is 34 degrees with partly cloudy. No snow on the ground or in the forecast, which is fine with me. Soon, we will be off to my parents' home for the festivities.

As we are preparing to leave, I just wanted to send everyone a quick--but VERY important--reminder: If you plan to travel with your pet today, please don't forget to crate him or seatbelt him in for safety.

Will Your Dog Join in the Holiday Festivities Tomorrow?

For many people--like my family--including the dogs in holiday trips and festivities isn't optional. Where we go, they go. That means we must be prepared to meet our dogs' needs while we are away from home:

1. Always ask if your dog will be welcome before you bring him along. Some religions have restrictions on contact with dogs, some people are highly allergic to dog dander and/or saliva, and still others might be cynophobic (severely afraid of dogs). Even though my Service Dog, Mickey, is guaranteed access to public gatherings under the Americans with Disabilities Act, I always ask permission to bring him to locations that are exempt, such as church services, private homes, and clubs (such as country clubs and fraternal organizations) for events that are open to members only.

2. If your dog gets carsick easily, withhold food and water for a couple of hours before your trip and give him a ginger capsule or gingersnap cookie approximately 30 minutes before you leave. Check with your veterinarian to be sure that this is an appropriate remedy for your dog. Nothing kills the holiday spirit quicker than having to bathe your dog and clean the interior of your car upon reaching your destination.

3. Provide your dogs a quiet place away from all the festivities where they can rest and relax if the commotion becomes too much. This is a great use for crates or kennels. We always include a crate pad or blanket that smells like home for extra reassurance. For dogs who are especially nervous, use a product such as the Thundershirt, coupled with music from the Through a Dog's Ear CDs to lower his stress levels.

4. Even if your dog is great with kids, make sure that you closely supervise interaction with any children AT ALL TIMES. Remember, Christmas is a mega-exciting event for kids; even those who are normally well-behaved may forget their manners. If necessary, be prepared to keep your dog on-leash by your side throughout the event. The last thing you want for Christmas is an ER bill, legal problems and/or bad blood with your friends or family because your dog nipped an over-excited child.

5. Monitor your dog's food intake extremely carefully. Each year, we prepare Kongs for our dogs, filled with the ONLY holiday treats they are allowed to have (skinless roasted turkey, steamed veggies, and a little no-sodium broth) and frozen ahead of time. We remind family members that the dogs are not allowed to beg for food from the table and shouldn't be given any scraps. When dinner is announced, we give the dogs their Kongs and they settle in the living room, far from the dining room table.

6. Pay attention to your host's holiday decorations. Common holiday plants such as poinsettias, mistletoe, holly, amaryllis, narcissus & fir trees are all toxic to your dog. The degree of toxicity depends on the plant and the amount ingested. Check the ASPCA's toxic plant page, which comes complete with photos, for the complete list. Other decorations such as tinsel, glass or Hallmark-type ornaments, artificial trees and garland, and even the wrapping paper, ribbons, and bows used to decorate gifts may pose threats to your dog's health if ingested.

7. Watch for signs that your dog needs a potty break. If the dog is in an unfamiliar area, his potty training may break down. When in doubt, give your dog the opportunity to go outside once an hour. Set the alarm on your cell phone as a reminder if needed. It's better to excuse yourself to take your dog outside, than to apologize for an accident later.

8. Be sensitive to the feelings of guests who may dislike dogs or be fearful of them for one reason or another. You might love it when your 100-pound Rottie puts his front paws on your shoulders and slathers you with kisses, but not everyone does.

9. Maintain your dog's regular schedule as much as possible. If he goes for a 4PM walk, then eats dinner at 6PM, followed by bedtime at 9PM every other day of the year, excuse yourself at these times to attend to his needs.

10. There may be areas of the home that your host doesn't want your dog to explore. Respect those boundaries. We always carry 2 doggy gates when we travel to help prevent the dogs from venturing into off-limit areas of the home. Don't assume that there will be doors or that your host will supply barriers for your use.

11. If there are other pets present, keep a close eye on your dog's interaction with them. Remember that not all dogs are well-socialized and that many cats do not tolerate dogs under any circumstances. Older and infirm animals may lash out at the friendliest of puppies, out of fear that they could be hurt. Unless you know the other pets very well, keep them separated or everyone on leash. It only takes a second for a normal, happy play session between two or more dogs to turn ugly.

12. If your dog is possessive over toys, chews, or food, be vigilant about removing tempting items from his reach. If the items belong to your host's children or animals, or those accompanying another guest, ask permission first and make sure you explain that you are doing it for the safety of everyone involved.

While this seems like a huge list of things to consider, it isn't... really. After a holiday party or two, covering all your bases will become automatic. And preventing problems before they occur makes for a much happier holiday for everyone.

Yappy Howlidays from me, Mickey, Mo, Winston, & Jax

Tip of the Day from 12/23/11: Winter Emergency Kit

This time of year, they usually run a segment on the local news about the kit that everyone here in Ohio should carry in their cars, just in case of an emergency during inclement weather. Most of them suggest carrying the same things: drinking water, a blanket, snow boots, snow brush, ice scraper, extra socks, gloves, hat, and scarf, first aid kit, pea gravel or sand, snow shovel, nonperishable food items, a flashlight, jumper cables, signal flares or cones, etc.

But few of them ever mention the things that pet owners should carry in their cars for the safety and comfort of their companions. When I put my kit together, I add the following:

1. A warm sweater or coat for each of my dogs
2. A warm blanket for each of my dogs, plus a couple extras
3. A three-day supply of kibble for each of my dogs
4. A three-day supply of water for each of my dogs
5. A three-day supply of any medications taken by my dogs (when applicable)
6. Chewies, treats, and squeaky toys for each of my dogs
7. A pet first aid kit
8. A dozen potty pads
9. An extra dog collar and lead (in case we encounter a stray)
10. A nylon pop-up dog crate
11. At least a half-dozen clean towels
12. Current vet records for each of my dogs

While I may never have to use any of this equipment due to an accident or becoming stranded away from home in bad weather, I feel a million times better, knowing that it's in the back of my car... just in case.

10 Reasons Private Dog Training Lessons May Be for You

When most people think of obedience training for their dogs, the image that comes to mind is a large room, filled with 15 or so handler/dog teams all listening to a single trainer giving commands like a drill instructor. As a professional trainer who has taught group classes, I can assure you that not all groups function in that way. They can be a lot of fun, but group classes may not be for everyone.

Here are the top reasons why private lessons may be better for you and your dog:

1. Private lessons aren't as expensive as you may believe. My eight-week group obedience class costs $80. Eight weeks of private lessons are only $20 more

2. Private lessons can begin at any time; you don't have to wait for a new class session to start.

3. Private lessons are scheduled at your convenience, especially great for busy professionals and those with hectic family lives.

3. Private lessons are held at your home, which is especially advantageous for seniors and those with medical challenges.

4. During private lessons, 100% of the trainer's attention is on you and your dog, helping you to hone your training skills and to improve your dog's performance

5. Private lessons progress at your pace, so you don't feel rushed if you need to spend extra time on specific skills.

6. During private lessons, the trainer always has time to answer your specific questions, whether they pertain to the lesson at hand or other challenges you may be facing with your dog.

7. Private lessons are beneficial for the whole family to attend, including children who need to learn how to be safe around dogs.

8. Rescheduling private lessons due to illness or another emergency is a snap, as long as the trainer is given advance notice. For group students, there is no option to make up for missed classes unless the class is canceled due to trainer illness or bad weather.

9. Private lessons are great for dogs who are shy or reactive toward other dogs, allowing them to build confidence and obedience skills before joining a group class.

10. Private lessons are wonderful for people who feel shy or self-conscious in large groups of people.

Tip of the Day from 12/21/11: Daily Physical Exam

On a daily basis , perform a mini-examination on your dog:
1. Touch all 4 paws
2. Check inside his ears
3. Look inside his mouth
4. Lift his tail
5. Run your hands gently over his body

If your dog shows signs of discomfort, move very slowly, speak to him in a slow, quiet, calm tone of voice and use high-value treats to show him that being touched is a pleasant experience. It may take weeks (or even months) before he stands quietly without any protest while you examine him

Accustoming him to being handled in this manner will make veterinary visits more pleasant as well as alerting you to any changes in your dog's physiology at a very early stage, not to mention giving you a leg up on "Appearance and Grooming" when taking the AKC Canine Good Citizen test.

Tip of the Day from 12/20/11: Annual Veterinary Exams a Must

Even if your dog doesn't need shots, make sure he gets an annual physical exam, so a better chance of catching illnesses early. Just as with human beings, early detection gives your dog a much better chance of successful treatment.

Introducing Cautious Dogs to New Experiences

This morning, I decided it was time to introduce my 1.5 y/o Pug, to the Agility tunnel. Winston is a cautious dog. Since he's a rescue dog who joined my pack at 1 year old, I'm not sure if it's just his nature or if previous experiences taught him that curiosity isn't always a good thing.

Every time we encounter something new, Winston is quite hesitant to approach and explore. So, we do everything at his pace. This allows him to gain confidence about new things. If I rushed him, it would only frighten him, thus reinforcing his belief that novel experiences are scary.

I quietly set up the tunnel in a U-shape on the floor of my basement, then threw treats all around the openings. Any time Winston approached the treats, I praised him lavishly, but he refused to set even one foot inside the tunnel. So, I walked away and left him alone with the great temptation of out-of-reach treats.

When I heard the distinctive sound of footsteps on the floor of the nylon tunnel, I returned, walking slowly and praising him.  He got brave and went all the way through and I continued "baiting" the tunnel with lots of treats and rewarded him with constant praise whenever he was in the tunnel.

After about 5 minutes, he became comfortable with the U-shaped tunnel, so I stretched the tunnel out to its full 10-foot length. The new shape was enough to make Winston unsure about entering the tunnel again. He walked along its length, not quite willing to go inside to get the treats.

I quietly praised him any time he went near the openings until he got brave enough to go inside. A few minutes later, he was trotting back and forth in the tunnel, happily chasing treats. Once he'd done that 4-5 times, I called an end to the exercise, so that his last memory of the tunnel was positive.

Winston has come to trust me a great deal, since I've never pushed him past his limits in the last 5 months. I believe that this is the reason we were able to progress so far with the tunnel in a single 15-minute session.

Do I consider the tunnel challenge to be conquered? Not by a long shot. We will continue to work with the tunnel periodically all winter. With hard work (and a little luck), Winston will be ready to add the tunnel to his Agility repertoire  in the backyard, come spring.

If you have a dog like Winston, remember that introducing new experiences in a manner like I've described above can make the difference between building confidence and reinforcing fear. It is very important to watch your dog for signs of stress(1):

• Yawning

• Panting even though the dog is not hot

• Licking his lips

• Scratching

• Looking away

• Shaking off (as though he is wet)

• Stretching

• Quick exhalations of breath

• Lying down and refusing to move

• Drooling

• Pacing or circling

• Tucking his tail and moving away from the object

• Whining

If your dog becomes stressed or fearful, you've gone too far, too fast with the introduction and should stop the exercise immediately. When you begin again (at a later time), go more slowly so that your dog stays comfortable with the new experience. With some dogs, it could take weeks or months before they are truly comfortable with new situations. Just remember to let your dog set the pace.

(1) This list was modified from information appearing in an excellent resource, the Best Friends Animal Society pamphlet, titled, "Dog Body Language," written by Sherry Woodard. I recently searched the site, but was unable to find the page where the pamphlet appears.

Tip of the Day from 12/16/11: No-Pull Solutions

One of the biggest complaints I hear from clients with large breed puppies is that the puppies pull when walking on-leash. It doesn't take long for them to figure out how strong they are and once they learn to pull on the leash, it can be difficult to break them of the habit. So, if your pup is destined to be a very large, strong adult dog, the sooner you start teaching him to walk politely on leash, the better!

I do NOT advocate the use of shock collars, choke chains, or prong collars on any dog. Instead, start early with training collars such as the Holt Head Collar, the Halti, or the Gentle Leader for dogs with average muzzles.  For brachycephalic (short-muzzled) breeds and all toy dogs, use a harness, like the Sporn No-Pull, the Weiss Walkie, or the Easy Walk. 

Keep in mind that training head collars and harnesses are tools to teach your puppy that walking calmly beside you is the place to be. They should never be paired with aversives, such as yelling at your puppy or yanking sharply on his leash. Instead, use treats and praise to encourage your puppy when he is walking at your side.

Tip of the Day from 12/15/11: Teach Your Dog to Love His Name

Create positive associations with your dog's name. Never use it to scold him. Call his name only for good things, such as treats, games, car rides, and other rewards.

Tip of the Day from 12/13/11: Does Your Dog Turn into Speed Racer When the Door Opens?

Does your dog race out the door the moment it's opened?  With most people expecting lots of company over the holidays, try this technique to keep your dog calm while your greet your guests.

Tip of the day from 12/12/11: Alternatives to attending on-site classes

Here in OH, the winter weather is unpredictable. This makes committing to a series of group dog training classes a bit challenging. An alternative is to sign up for online classes. I really like the concept of this program, since it provides feedback from the trainer in the form of critiquing student videos.

Tip of the day from 12/11/11: Alternatives to Cash Donations to Rescue Organizaations

Animal shelters need more than food & kitty litter to provide safe and comfortable homes for adoptable pets while they're waiting for their forever homes. Consider donating paper towels, bleach, office supplies, towels, & blankets, too. If you're not sure what your favorite shelter needs, check their web-site or call the office to find out what is on their wish-list. More often than not, they will tell you they need volunteers more than anything. Giving of your time costs nothing, but it may make a world of difference to an adoptable animal, waiting for his forever home.

Tip of the Day from 12/10/11: Tantalizing Trees

If your dog won't leave the Xmas tree alone, place an ex-pen in front of it, so he can't reach the tempting decorations.

Tip of the Day from 12/09/11: Indoor Fetch

Looking for a safe indoor toy for your fetch fiend? 45 min w Chuckit!'s Indoor Launcher = 1 tired & happy Pug & no damage to the Xmas tree or other breakables :) We got the roller and it doubles as a tug toy.

Tip of the Day from 12/06/11: Sidewalk Salt & Your Dog

Sidewalk salt can burn your dog's paws & cause digestive distress. Carefully wipe paws after walking on heavily salted areas or use dog boots. On your own property, purchase a salt-free ice melting product, such as Safe Paw.

Tip of the Day from 12/05/11: Alternative to Walking in Inclement Weather

If you dislike walking your dog when the weather is less than perfect, teach your dog to use a treadmill instead. Watch Mickey and notice that his tail doesn't stop wagging :)

Tip of the Day from 12/04/11: Decorating Your Holiday Tree

When decorating your holiday tree, skip the garland & tinsel. Both are tempting to your dog & can wreak havoc on his digestive system.

Tip of the Day from 12/03/11: Alternatives to Holiday Puppies

Instead of purchasing a puppy as a holiday gift, consider giving a donation of your money, time, or dog supplies to a dog shelter, such as Best Friends Animal Society in Kenab, UT, Villalobos Rescue Center in Agua Dulce, CA, or my personal favorite Citizens for Humane Action in Columbus, OH.

Has Your Puppy Turned into Chewzilla?

Between the ages of four and seven months, puppies begin to lose their milk teeth. At this time, you will notice that your puppy puts EVERYTHING in her mouth, whether it is appropriate or not. Just like human babies, they do this in an attempt to relieve the pain caused by teething.

The most important thing you can do is to puppy-proof all areas where your puppy spends time. Get down on your hands and knees to see things from your puppy's point-of-view. Anything she can reach is a potential chew toy. When possible, remove items from her reach. What you can't remove, should be made unappealing. Try bitter apple spray or hot sauce to discourage chewing.

Never leave your puppy unattended. Crate her when you cannot give her 100% of your attention. Tether her to you when she's not crated; this serves as a reminder to keep your eye on her and prevents her from wandering off. Use an ex-pen or baby gates to limit the area she can reach if you chose not to tether.

Provide your puppy with a variety of safe chew toys, Nylabones, Kongs, and other toys will hold your puppy's attention and provide her with appropriate things to chew. Kongs are wonderful for teething puppies, since they can be filled with goodies and frozen solid. The cold feels great on sore gums and it takes longer to get all of the treats out.

Along those same lines, there are puppy toys that are made much like teething rings for human babies. When using those, examine carefully for pinprick holes, which may allow the liquid to leak out.

If you find your puppy chewing on an inappropriate item, you may be tempted to punish your puppy physically, but this method doesn't work and it will teach your puppy to fear you. Instead, calmly tell her, "No chew," then trade it for something the dog is allowed to have.

Remember to always trade up, giving the dog something more valuable (in her mind) than what she already has. You may have to break out the chicken breast, cheese, hot dogs, or bully sticks to coax her into letting go of something she's really enjoying.

Unless your puppy is chewing on something that will harm him, don't chase after him to take an item away. Doing this makes it a game and there are few games dogs love better than chase and keep-away.

Often, tossing a high-value item a few feet behind you will cause the puppy to drop what she has in order to get to the other item. When she does this, calmly pick up the forbidden item and remove it from the puppy's reach.

In the case of an emergency--like a puppy with a chicken bone, an electrical cord, or a bag of chocolate--startling her is a sure-fire way to make her drop what she has in her mouth. Using a "shake can" (a soda can with a few pennies inside) or an air horn will do the trick.

If you come home to discover that your puppy has chewed your favorite shoes to pieces, chalk it up as a learning lesson for you and skip the scolding; there is a very small window of time to correct a dog after he's done something wrong... approximately 2 seconds.

Any corrections done after that are a waste of your time and energy. They will also stress your puppy, since she has no idea why you're so angry with her, and may make her dread your homecomings.

Teething is a stressful stage for puppy owners, but with careful management, it goes quickly. It might help to use, "This, too, shall pass," as your personal mantra.

Tip of the Day from 11/28/11: Try Treibball

Looking for a fun sport to keep your herding breed happy? Check out The American Treibball Association! They also have a YouTube channel where you can watch videos of dogs learning this alternative to herding animals.

Tip of the Day from 11/27/11: Choosing a New Dog

Getting a new dog? Dog trainers usually have experience with a wide variety of breeds, making them a great resource for information on choosing the right breed for your family. Some trainers (like me) are also experienced with temperament testing, which will help you decide which puppy or adult dog to bring home.

Tip of the Day from 11/26/11: Healthy Diet

For a happy, healthy dog feed him the best quality food you can afford. How does your dog's diet stack up? Check out the reviews on http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/

Recommended Reading for the Dog Owner

While taking private or group obedience classes can be extremely helpful, often there isn't time to go into as much detail on dog behavior as the handler would like, so I recommend the following books to my clients.

1. A Dog Who's Always Welcome by Lorie Long: This book contains a wealth of information on socializing the pet dog.

2. How to Speak Dog by Stanley Coren: A fascinating work on the art of communicating with dogs in a way they readily understand.

3. Brain Games for Dogs by Claire Arrowsmith: If you're looking for ways to mentally stimulate your dog, this book is a must-have!

4. Cesar's Rules by Cesar Millan: While I don't recommend many of Cesar's more forceful techniques, there is a lot of good training information in this volume.

5. 101 Dog Tricks by Kyra Sundance: I love this book! It presents a wide variety of tricks, breaking them down into easy-to-follow steps.

6. Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook by Eldridge, Carlson, Carlson, and Giffin: I wouldn't be without this weighty tome. It is chock-full of great information on recognizing medical issues, when and how to treat them at home, and when veterinary care is a must.

7. It's Me or the Dog by Victoria Stilwell: If you enjoy her series on Animal Planet as much as I do, you'll love this book. It showcases Ms. Stilwell's positive training methods.

8. The Encyclopedia of Dog Breeds by Dr. Carolyn Coile, PhD: This volume provides a history of the dog breed and gives the reader realistic expectations on whether each breed would fit into her lifestyle. I love the "At a Glance" sections, which indicate ease of training, level of affection, and other important factors often left out of other books.

9. Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt: Want to have a dog who is reliably obedient both on- and off-leash? Ms. McDevitt outlines a plan to make this happen.

10. Love Has No Age Limit by Patricia McConnell, PhD and Karen London, PhD: Full of advice on how to handle common issues experienced when bringing a new dog into the home, I really think this book should be

included with every dog adoption!

11. Speaking for Spot by Dr. Nancy Kay: This is the book you hope you never have to have, but you really need. Written as a guide to be a better advocate for your dog's health, it covers difficult but important topics.

12. Dog First Aid: This is the American Red Cross guide. I wouldn't be without it. It includes a DVD as well as easy-to-follow instructions on dealing with canine medical emergencies. If you can, take the course in person through your local Red Cross for invaluable hands-on experience.

Tip of the Day from 11/25/11: Holiday Decorations

When decorating for the holidays, please remember that common holiday plants such as poinsettias, mistletoe, holly, amaryllis, narcissus & fir trees are all be toxic to your dog. The degree of toxicity depends on the plant and the amount ingested.

Tip of the Day from 11/24/11: Sharing Holiday Goodies

Can't resist sharing today's feast with your dog? Stick to small amounts of skinless turkey & plain, steamed veggies (no butter, salt or other seasonings) to avoid tummy upsets.

Looking for a Great Holiday Gift?

With all of the puppies given at Christmas, obedience lessons are a wonderful gift!

Did you know that puppies can start obedience training as soon as they leave their mothers? My gentle, positive methods will get your new puppy off to a great start.

I am offering special pricing on my package of 8 private 1-hour sessions, held in the client's home. Regularly priced at $100, the package is available for a limited time at $80 (plus travel charges if the client lives more than 15 miles from Saint Marys, OH). 

My New Puppy package includes housebreaking and crate training tips as well as teaching basic obedience commands, including sit, stay, recall (coming when called), and walking politely on-leash. Package may be tailored to address the owner's specific questions and concerns.

This special pricing is also available for older dogs who need help with their basic obedience skills.

Make sure to include the code "Xmasgift" in the comments section on my contact page and prepay by January 1, 2012.

Tip of the Day from 11/22/11:High-value Treats

Is your dog less than thrilled with commercial dog treats? When training, try cheese cubes, hot dogs, or chicken breast to motivate him.

Tip of the Day from 11/21/11: Carsickness

Does your dog get carsick? Give him a ginger capsule or a gingersnap cookie about an hour before car trips. Withholding food and water for a couple of hours may also decrease the possibility of an upset tummy in the car.

Tip of the Day from 11/19/11: Traveling with Your Dog

Since so many people travel over Thanksgiving & take their dogs along, I thought I'd share an article on safe travel with dogs.

Tip of the Day from 11/18/11: Dry Coat

As winter approaches, your dog's coat may dry out and you might notice that he has a bit of dandruff when you pet him. Try supplementing his meals with salmon oil to keep his furry soft and glossy. The bonus? It's also good for his heart and his joints :)

PRODUCT REVIEW: Snuggle Safe (TM) Microwave Heating Pad with Cover

My Chihuahua, Mo, is getting older and has had some medical issues, so I decided to find something to help him stay warm this winter. When I found the Snuggle Safe (TM) Microwave Heating Pad with Cover ($26.99 at Jeffers Pets), I thought I had hit the mother lode.

I love the fact that the Snuggle Safe (TM) heats in the microwave instead of having an electrical cord. My concerns that it would be too hot when first heated were unfounded. As promised, it stays warm for 10+ hours without reheating.

Unfortunately, Mo does not love the Snuggle Safe (TM). I can't say that I blame him. It is hard as a brick! He wanted nothing to do with it, even when I layered several of his favorite soft and fluffy blankets over top of it.

This would be the perfect thing if only it were soft and pliable. As it is, I will probably donate it to my local shelter; perhaps they can use it to warm newborn puppies and kittens who aren't as picky as my Mo...

Tip of the Day from 11/17/11: More on Fearful Dogs

Patricia McConnell has written a great booklet called The Cautious Canine: How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears for people whose dogs are shy or fearful.

Tip of the Day from 11/16/11: Resource for Fearful Dogs

If you are living with a dog who is fearful, please visit Fearful Dogs for a world of amazing tips on helping him to become happier and more confident. My incredible Service Dog, Mickey, is proof that fears CAN be overcome.

Tip of the Day from 11/15/11: Doggy Play Dates (Part III)

If your dog is possessive over balls, Frisbees or other toys, remove them when he meets a new playmate to encourage interaction and to prevent the possibility of scuffles over a treasured toy.

Tip of the Day from 11/14/11: Doggy Play Dates (Part II)

When choosing a playmate for your dog, look for one of a similar age, size, and energy level. This will give the pairing a better chance of getting along well.

Tip of the Day from 11/13/11: Doggy Play Dates

Play dates are a wonderful way to socialize dogs. For the best chance of success, introduce new dogs to each other on neutral ground. This will cut down on territorial squabbles.

Tip of the Day from 11/12/11: Excitement at the Dog Park

Does your dog get overexcited at the dog park? Exercise him for 20-30 minutes beforehand. He'll still have plenty of energy left to play with his buddies and he will be less likely to cause a ruckus when he enters the dog park.

Tip of the Day from 11/11/11: Exercise During Inclement Weather

During inclement weather, set up a homemade obstacle course indoors to give your dog the physical & mental stimulation he needs.

A hula hoop can be used as a makeshift tire jump.

An ottoman can become a pause table.

A large cardboard box, open at both ends, can be substituted for a tunnel.

A broom handle, resting on the rungs of two chairs makes a dandy jump.

For small dogs, use pool noodles spaced evenly apart in a hallway for a jump course.

Tip of the Day from 11/10/11: Not Motivated by Food?

If you have one of those unusual dogs who aren't motivated by food, use his favorite toy or tennis ball as a reward when training.

Tip of the Day from 11/09/11: Seatbelts for Dogs

Unrestrained animals cause many car accidents. Keep yourself and your dog safe with a crate or doggy seatbelt every time you travel.

Tip of the Day from 11/08/11: Nuisance Barking

Nuisance barking is usually caused by frustration. Give your dog something constructive to do, including a long walk everyday to alleviate his boredom.

Tip of the Day from 11/07/11: Distracting Service Dog Teams

If you encounter a Service Dog team in public, please ask permission before interacting with the dog. Taking his attention away from his handler could put her life in danger.

Tip of the Day from 11/06/11: Power Chewers

If your dog destroys rubber toys, try purchasing them in a larger size. Most damage is done when the toy fits between the dog's back teeth.

Tip of the Day from 11/05/11: Training with Food

If you use food to reinforce your dog's good behavior, make sure to adjust his meals to account for the extra calories he gets during training, so he doesn't pack on the pounds.

Tip of the Day from 11/04/11: Destructiveness

Destructiveness is often caused by boredom. Walking your dog 30-60 minutes per day will curb much of his misbehavior... and it's good for you, too :)

Is Your Teenaged Dog Driving You Crazy?

When they reach five to eight months of age, puppies appear lose their minds. Not to worry, it's only adolescence... which ends at some point between 18 months and 3 years of age, depending on the dog. This is the most trying period of dog ownership; the vast majority of dogs surrendered to shelters are adolescents. But with patience, determination, and guidance from a great dog trainer, your teenager doesn't need to become a statistic.

SIGNS OF ADOLESCENCE:

Distractability: At this stage in their development, puppies are interested in everything and seem to lose all ability to focus. This is a major source of frustration for dog owners; even the most obedient of pups act like they've never heard the commands their owners have worked so hard to teach them. When your puppy exhibits this symptom, the best thing to do is to go back to basics: train in short bursts in low-distraction areas. Use lots of praise and high value treats when your puppy responds appropriately.

Shyness/Fearfulness: New people and novel experiences may become frightening in even the most self-confident puppies. If this describes your puppy, continue to socialize her, but do not push her into scary situations. Allow her to explore at her own pace, giving her tons of encouragement for any sign that she is relaxed and curious. Socialization groups, closely monitored by someone knowledgeable about dog behavior, is a great way to help your puppy through this stage.

Sexual changes: In adolescence, dogs reach sexual maturity. During adolescence, males begin to hike their legs and mark EVERYTHING they can reach. This may mean going back to tethering or crating to prevent urination in the house. Unspayed females experience their first heat, which may attract males from miles around. You must be extremely vigilant to prevent your little Houdini from escaping. unwanted breedings are only part of the problem; tragic accidents may occur if your dog is unsupervised outside your home.

Willfulness: Puppies who have always walked docilely beside their owners suddenly turn into draft horses, capable of pulling many times their own weight. When your puppy hits this stage, the best thing to do is to utilize training equipment (such as the Easy Walk harness or Gentle Leader) to discourage pulling. If your puppy hasn't already learned to walk on a loose leash, this is a good time to teach that skill.

Chewing: Puppies cut their adult teeth when they are approximately four to five months old. Teething is painful and puppies chew endlessly during this time. You may notice that your furniture has become nothing more than expensive chew toys. Dogs never lose the urge to chew, so getting a handle of this problem while your dog is young will save you a lot of frustration in the long run. Puppy-proof, supervise and provide appropriate toys until your puppy learns which items are okay to chew.

Impulsiveness: Trash cans, table tops and counters are magically transformed into irresistible buffets. This requires management. Remove tempting items from surfaces and don't under-estimate her reach; some small dogs can jump onto kitchen counters with ease. Trashcans should have lids or be placed inside puppy-proofed closets or cabinets; it may be necessary to weight down the lid to keep curious puppies out. Baby gates are a great way to keep puppies out of areas where trouble beckons.

Aggression: The friendliest puppy at the dog park may turn into a raging bully. Blame it on the hormones, but it must be managed before it becomes a habit. This is another good reason to enroll your dog in a well-run socialization group or doggy daycare, where he can learn to play appropriately with other dogs.

Excitement/eagerness: The calmest of puppies suddenly turn into a combination of Tigger and the Energizer Bunny. The cure for this? Exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks in the park, obedience classes, fetch in the backyard, training games, and socializing with other dogs all fit the bill.

Adolescence is the most challenging part of your dog's development. He is going through both physical and psychological changes that will last anywhere from 1-2 years. Please don't get frustrated and give up on him. Using the tips above—coupled with an individualized training program—will help your puppy to become a wonderful companion whose company you will enjoy for years to come.

PRODUCT REVIEW: Shedzilla vs Furminator

Sharing a household with a medium-coated German Shepherd Dog/Beagle X, a Pug, a smooth-coated Chihuahua, and a very thick-coated Shetland Sheepdog, I'm constantly on the lookout for ways to reduce the amount of dog hair covering everything I own. Judging by the large number of options available to dog owners these days, I'm not the only one.

Recently, I tested two of the most popular de-shedding products on the market these days: Shedzilla and FURminator on our four dogs with mixed results.

Shedzilla by Oster Animal Care

purchased at: Wal-mart

purchase price: $19.97 + tax

pros:

* reasonably priced

* easy to use 

* comfortable grip

* very effective for removing undercoat in medium and long coats without removing guard hairs

* glides through even heavy undercoat

* teeth have curved edges to protect dog's skin

cons: 

* only comes in one variety

* ineffective for use on smooth-coated dogs

* unwieldy size and shape for use on dogs under 25 pounds

Furminator

purchased at Petsmart

purchase price: $37.99-$72.99 + tax

pros:

* comes in 10 varieties (toy, small, medium, large, and giant for both smooth and long coats)

* easy to use

* comfortable grip

* one-button hair removal

*very effective for removing undercoat

cons:

* expensive

* may require the purchase of several Furminators for multi-breed households

* sharp edges can scratch skin

* may get caught in thick fur and cause discomfort to dog

* sometimes removes more guard hairs than undercoat

Overall, these two products are equally effective. In a 10-minute grooming session, both the Shedzilla and the FURminator removed HUGE amounts of undercoat from the GSD/Beagle X and the Sheltie, much more than other products on the market such as a shedding blade, shedding combs, or slicker brushes.

However, neither product is the elusive permanent solution to the shedding problem; within an hour of using them, the fur began to fly again. However, if used daily during the heavy shedding seasons, both of them do reduce the amount of hair deposited on every surface of the home.

The Shedzilla would be my grooming tool of choice for all my dogs... if only it were available in a variety of sizes, so I could use it on the Pug and the Chihuahua. However, it is sized perfectly for 25-50 pound dogs. The GSD/Beagle X and the Shetland Sheepdog are not big fans of being groomed, yet both of them tolerated longer grooming sessions using the Shedzilla than with the FURminator.

To Crate of Not to Crate

I am surprised to find that crating (also known as "kenneling") dogs remains a controversial issue. Opponents of the practice claim that it is cruel and many dog owners feel guilty about doing it. When done properly, it is neither of those things.

Crates are available in an infinite variety of styles and prices, from expensive wood models that double as end tables to plastic travel kennels to collapsible wire or nylon pop-up crates. Each of them has its strong points, but I prefer the wire models for puppies who are still chewing on everything they can get into their mouths.

When you choose a crate for your dog, the most important thing is make sure it is appropriately sized. He should be able to stand, sit, lie down, and turn around comfortably with a bit of room to spare. If your puppy has a lot of growing to do and your budget is limited, consider purchasing a crate (based on his predicted adult size) with a moveable divider panel.

Please avoid making your own barrier, using materials such as cardboard, plywood or flimsy plastic that your puppy can chew up.  A sturdy chew-proof barrier will prevent you from becoming frustrated and--more importantly-- it will safeguard your puppy from becoming ill or injured.

Crates are wonderful tools for housebreaking. Most dogs will not soil their sleeping areas if given a choice. However, It is important to remember that puppies can be expected to hold their bladders for only one hour per month of age. And it is never a good idea to ask a dog or any age to remain crated for longer than 8-9 hours at a time.

Until your puppy is completely trustworthy--meaning fully housebroken and chewing only on appropriate items--I recommend crating him whenever he does not have your full attention. It takes only seconds for a curious puppy to get himself into trouble and it is much easier to prevent unwanted behavior than to train the behavior out later. If he protests, give him a Kong stuffed full of delicious treats or another puppy-safe toy to occupy him.

Crating your puppy when he becomes tired will teach him that his kennel is the place to go when it is time to rest. For some, it doesn't take them long to ask to be crated when they get sleepy. A client's German Shepherd Dog began doing this when she was only a few months old.

Puppies--as well as some sensitive adult dogs--can become overstimulated very easily. Allowing your puppy to retire to his crate when things get hectic, allows him a chance to seek out peace and quiet. My sister's five-year-old Sheltie still retreats to his crate at the first sign of chaos.

If your puppy will be professionally groomed or boarded at a kennel while you are on vacation, teaching him to accept being crated will make the experience less stressful for him and your groomer or boarding facility's employees will love you for it. It will also make it easier for him if he becomes ill or injured and needs to spend an extended period at your veterinarian's office.

Your puppy's crate is his safe place to rest, relax, and keep out of trouble. But he also needs plenty of time to run, to play, to interact with his family, and to learn how to behave appropriately. If you work long hours and your puppy isn't ready to be left alone in the house without supervision, consider asking a friend or neighbor to give him a potty break during the day. Or hire a dog-walking service to exercise him while you're away from home.

These days, quite a few people prefer to take their dogs with them almost everywhere. When traveling by car, I recommend crating your puppy in a wire or plastic kennel--or using a specially designed seatbelt harness--to keep your puppy safe. Many automobile accidents are caused by unconfined dogs. Crating your puppy may prevent serious injury in the case of a sudden stop or a collision. And confining your puppy to his crate during long car trips may prevent his getting lost or injured when you stop for gas, food, or other necessities.

When shouldn't your puppy be crated? If you are upset or angry with her for eliminating in the house, chewing up your favorite shoes, or any other misbehavior. Using the crate as punishment will create a negative association in your puppy's mind. Dogs are not capable of connecting wrong-doing with punishment unless they are caught within a couple seconds of the act. Crating your puppy minutes or hours after he's made a mistake might make you feel better, but it will only leave him confused and disliking his crate.

How NOT to Recall Your Dog

On a recent trip to the dog park, I observed a frequent problem: a human who is ready to leave and a dog who is not ready to give up the fun and freedom of running around off-leash.

At first, the woman tried calling her dog in a cheerful voice, "Fido, come!"

When the dog ignored her and continued to dash around the large enclosure, she tried using a more serious tone, "Fido, come here!"

Once again, the dog ignored her, so she yelled, "FIDO, GET OVER HERE!"

And her dog continued on his merry way, completely disregarding her.

Next, she escalated to screaming, "Fido, you come here RIGHT NOW!" as her dog ran in wide circles around her, tail wagging and tongue lolling.

Finally realizing that yelling at the dog wasn't going to work, she resorted to, "Fido, sweetie, if you come here, I'll give you a cookie."

For this dog, running off-leash trumped the possibility of the treat, so he gave his owner a wide berth.

By this point, she was really frustrated (and probably a little embarrassed), so she changed tactics, stomping after her dog as he ran in the opposite direction, continuing to call him in a loud, angry voice.

I watched for about five minutes while the dog had the time of his life, staying just out of his owner's reach, barking and play-bowing from time to time.

Finally, the dog tired of the game and walked over to her when she called him for the five hundredth time. At this point, the owner snatched him up by the collar, leaned down and screamed directly into his face, "BAD! BAD DOG! BAD!"

Where did she go wrong?

1. Attempting to recall her not-so-well trained dog in a VERY high distraction environment. (Until a dog truly understands the recall and responds correctly 90% of the time when there are NO distractions, the recall will rarely--if ever--work in the presence of even a slight distraction.)
2. Asking for the recall when she had NO way of enforcing the command when the dog ignored it. (What the dog learned was, "When my owner calls me, I don't have to come until I'm good and ready.")
3. Repeating the command over and over again, using different phrasing every time. (With our advanced language skills, people understand that, "Come!"; "Come here!"; and "Get over here!" all mean the same thing. Dogs, however, do not.)
4. Attempting to bribe the dog into doing what she wanted. (All he understood was "FIDO, blah blah blah COOKIE." And the cookie didn't even begin to compare with what he already had: freedom to run and play off-leash.)
5. Chasing after her dog when she became frustrated. (Dogs LOVE to chase and be chased. They view it as a super-fun game.)
6. Punishing her dog when he finally came to her. (The owner believed she was punishing the dog for his 5-minute refusal to come when called. Dogs don't connect the punishment with an action that occurred more than a few seconds earlier; they associate the punishment with the event immediately preceding it.)

What could she have done better?

1. Spending A LOT more time on recalls at home and slowly increasing the level of distraction until the dog's recall is solid, no matter what's going on around him.
2. Calling her dog a single time, using a "standard" command, such as "Fido, come!"
3. Refusing to give her dog any attention whatsoever for ignoring her. I like Patricia McConnell's method: folding my arms over my chest, turning my head with my chin raised, and making a sound to signify that I'm disgusted with the dog's behavior.
4. Turning and walking away from her dog when he refused to come. Most dogs will turn and follow when they think their owner might leave them. With some dogs, it could take walking out the gate and a few steps away from the dog park for the dog to realize he's going to be left behind.
5. Praising her dog when he came to her. It's easy to become frustrated and hold a bit of a grudge when your dog misbehaves... especially when he's done something you find embarrassing. And what's more embarrassing than having to chase your dog around the dog park to get him back on leash when it's time to go home?

Discouraging Door Dashers

My new Pug, Winston, loves to Door-Dash. If it were an Olympic sport, he'd definitely make the US team and make a serious run for the gold. Fortunately for me (and for Winston), his Dashing is only motivated by a desire to go for a ride; he only goes across our driveway to the car; and he has a decent recall, so he has never been in any real danger.

For other dogs, Door-Dashing can be a dangerous sport. It leads to missing dogs, dog fights, unwanted litters of puppies, dog bites, and sometimes even to tragic accidents. All of these things can be prevented, simply by teaching a dog to control his impulses when the door opens.

The key, I've found, is to teach the dog a behavior that is incompatible with Door-Dashing. Last week, I discussed teaching the SIT-STAY and that is a great foundation for preventing a dog from running outside every time the door is opened.

Once the dog is reliably holding a SIT-STAY for 15-20 seconds--and by "reliably," I mean that he is successful no less than 8/10 trials with variable reinforcement--you may begin to add the distraction of an opening door.

Make sure you have extremely high value treats available. What is "high value," depends on your dog: hot dog slices, pieces of chicken, cheese, peanut butter, duck jerky. Use the treat your dog will do anything to get because you're about to hit him with major temptation.

Stand with your back to your front door and ask your dog for a SIT-STAY. Ideally, you want to position him at least five feet back and facing you. This means your dog is facing the door, which you are about to open (or so he thinks).

Step One is to reach out and put your hand on the doorknob.Watch for signs that your dog is about to break: leaning slightly forward, shifting his weight back and forth between his front legs, lifting his bottom slightly off the floor. Try to catch him BEFORE he actually breaks and encourage him not to move; it's more effective than correcting an actual break.

If your dog breaks his STAY, use your negative reinforcer ("UH-OH!") and return him to his original position. Then, begin again. If your dog holds his STAY while you touch the doorknob, use your positive reinforcer ("YES!") give your dog a jackpot each time he resists temptation. Repeat the exercise 3-5 times, then end the session.

Once he is reliably resisting the urge to break, you can vary the rate of reinforcement, but you may discover that the behavior falls apart without consistent reinforcement. If that happens, continue to work this step.

You may need to repeat this step over a period of days or weeks before your dog is successful at maintaining his STAY while you touch the doorknob without instant gratification (a treat each and every time) because there will be times you won't have treats handy and you do not want his impulse control to be dependent on a lure.

Step Two is to open and close the door while your dog maintains his STAY. This works great if you have a screen door; you can open and close the storm door without putting your dog's safety at risk. At first, you may only be able to open it a fraction of an inch before your dog is ready to break. And that's okay.

Repeat the same protocol as above until your dog is able to hold his stay with the door wide open. This may take much long to accomplish than step one did, but don't get discouraged.

If you are in a high traffic area or if your dog doesn't have a strong recall, I recommend putting him on a long leash for this exercise. Instead of holding the leash in your hand, try stepping on it or tying the end around a heavy piece of furniture; you don't want your dog to have the visual cue that he is being restrained.

For those with a screen door, you may add opening and closing it as Step Three, repeating the same protocol as Step Two.

Step Three (or Four for those with screen doors) is probably the hardest. At this point, you will ask your dog to STAY while you take a step outside the open door. In Winston's case, I really upped the level of difficulty by asking Mickey (who Winston positively WORSHIPS!) to go in and out of the door while Winston held his stay.

Then, to add increased temptation, I began to give Winston all the visual cues that Mickey and I were actually leaving: putting on my shoes, holding my keys in one hand, carrying my backpack, putting Mickey's Service Dog vest on him, etc. until Winston's STAY was solid under those circumstances.

Our next step? Asking him to hold his STAY to prevent him from dashing outside when delivery people come to the door and friends come to visit. That is still a work-in-progress, but he's steadily improving. If this is an area where your dog needs improvement, recruit a few friends to assist you. Start back at Step One if needed and keep working at it. Make sure you explain to your recruits that you may need to close the door in their faces, though, or you could cause some hurt feelings.

Teaching the Sit-Stay

In the past, dogs I've trained have really struggled with two aspects of the SIT-STAY: (1) the handler's turning her back on the dog to walk away and (2) the finish, in which the handler walks counter-clockwise around the dog at the end of the exercise so she ends with the dog in HEEL position.

Reading and watching material by Patricia McConnell recently has encouraged me to think of alternate methods to encourage dogs to perform as I'd like. Since I'm not taking on any new clients due to my illness, I've been itching to put these ideas into action

Now that we have Winston, a one year old rescue Pug (now neutered) who didn't even know SIT when we welcomed him to the pack, it is the perfect time to test these new--at least new to me--concepts.

STAYS are naturally difficult for dogs; they want to be close to their handlers, who love them, play with them and provide for their every need. The idea of allowing the handler to walk away is completely foreign to them. In some dogs, it can even be anxiety-provoking.

Traditionally, elementary-level STAYS are taught with the handler backing away from the dog, maintaining eye contact and taking a step or two while giving a hand signal for STAY (usually the palm-up "STOP SIGN"), then rushing back to reward the dog before he stands up. As the dog begins to understand the exercise, the handler either takes more steps or waits a slightly longer period before returning to the dog with a reward.

In my experience, the behavior first falls apart when the handlers turns his back on the dog to take a step or two after giving the command and the hand signal. So, it is back to baby steps until the dog understands that STAY means the same thing whether he can see his handler's face or not.

Once that has been reestablished, the next place the exercise falls apart is when the handler attempts the traditional obedience finish. Most dogs will twist their heads to follow the handler's movements as she walks around the dog, standing when the handler is out of sight.

To me, this seems like a lot more un-teaching of bad habits than teaching of good ones. So, with Winston, this is our step-by-step protocol.

(1) He learned SIT consistently--meaning that he sits on command with either verbal command or hand signal in a minimum of 8/10 trials with no visible food reward.

(2) To encourage him to sit for longer periods, he received food rewards every few seconds as long as all four feet and his butt remained motionless on the floor. If he stood up, I used my negative reinforcer ("AH!AH!") and guided him back to his original position.

(3) Once he offered longer sits (5-10 seconds) in a minimum of 8/10 trials with a consistent food reward, I varied the frequency of his food rewards.

(4) When he was offering the 5-10 second sits in a minimum of 8/10 trials without food reward, I introduced the command "STAY" with variable reward rates.

(5) When Winston consistently offered 5-10 second SIT-STAYS without food rewards, I began to turn my back on him. If he didn't move, I turned around to offer food rewards each time.

(6) Once Winston was accustomed to holding his stay for 5-10 seconds while my back was turned to him at least 8/10 trials, I began to take a single step away from him. Then, I turned to face him, took a step toward him and rewarded if he held his stay.

(7) When he was consistently holding his stay at least 8/10 trials with a variable rate of reinforcement, I slowly lengthened the number of steps I took away from him. With each additional step, I waited until he was consistently holding his stay a minimum of 8/10 trials with a variable rate of reinforcement before adding another one.

(8) Once I could walk away from Winston approximately 5 feet, I began to work on the finish. As I approached him, I side-stepped to my right and held a treat in my left hand at Winston's nose-level, repeating the STAY command. While I walked behind him, the treat remained in the same position, encouraging Winston to hold his stay until I stopped on his righthand side.

Winston was a quick study, but some dogs may need step #8 broken down further. If your dog has a really hard time with allowing you to circle behind him, start with baby-steps:

     (a) When you return to your dog, stop directly in front of him.

     (b) Once he holds his stay in 8/10 trials with you standing directly in front of him, hold a treat in your left hand and take one large sliding step to your right and stop.

     (C) When he consistently holds his stay in 8/10 trials with you standing to the right, begin to take a step forward (toward the rear of your dog). It will probably help to hold a high value treat at nose-level for this.

     (d) Once he holds his stay in 8/10 trials with you standing beside him, slowly slide around behind him, using a treat at nose level to encourage him to stay put as you move.

     (e) When he consistently holds his stay in 8/10 trials with you standing behind him, slowly move into HEEL position beside your dog, using a treat at his nose level to make sure he doesn't break his stay.

Once your dog has the basics down as described above, it is fairly easy to exend the amount of time the dog will maintain his position and his distance from you as long as you don't move too quickly.

Remember, slow is fast when training a dog. Asking a dog who can STAY for 15 seconds to jump to staying 2 minutes is unrealistic and the behavior will fall apart. Work up to a 2 minute STAY by increasing the stays a few seconds at a time.

Also remember that dogs do not generalize well. One who performs flawlessly in your living room may act like he's never heard the command at the dog park or at your mother's house. So, practicing in a variety of environments is key.

Start with the lowest level of distractions possible and work your way up.  Don't compare your older dog with a new one. My 5 year old Service Dog, Mickey, will stay if asked, even when there are other dogs present or if a rabbit runs past him. At this point, if a fly enters Winston's peripheral vision, he's going to forget to STAY. 

Above all, please make training FUN for your dog. 3-5 minute sessions several times a day are more effective than one long session. If you end while your dog is performing well, he'll be happier to train during the next session.

Adding a New Dog to the Pack

On June 30th, Winston (a one year old, intact male Pug) came to live with us. It was completely unintentional... which goes directly against the advice I give people who want to add a 2nd (or in our case a 4th) dog to their family. I always recommend thinking long and hard about whether getting another dog is feasible before beginning the search for a suitable dog.

A neighbor had Winston in a small (3' x 3') plastic pen in her front yard with a sign saying, "Free Pug" nailed to a tree beside the street. While the pen was in the shade of a large tree, it was already over 80 degrees at 11 AM. Pugs don't do well with heat, so I went over to check on him when Mickey and I were headed to the woods for a run. Good thing I did because he didn't have a drop of water!

So, I filled his bowl from the bottle I carry to rehydrate Mickey when he exercises hard in hot weather. This was one of the friendliest little dogs I've ever seen. He just oozed with the "Pet me, love me" vibe. My neighbor's son came out and told me that "Hooch" was a year old and needed to find a new home because his owner was moving to a pets-prohibited location. I took a couple of pictures to send to friends and contacts in the dog world, so I could help find the little guy a good home.

At 1 PM, the temperature was still climbing and Winston was STILL outside in that pen. The neighbor said she had put him out there because chaos reigned when Winston was in the house with the Pomeranian she had recently adopted. Apparently, it was a growl-wrestle-run-and-hump-fest. Not having seen the two dogs play together, I had no way to determine if the neighbor was confusing appropriate play (which often includes chasing, wrestling, and what Patricia McConnell calls "tooth wrestling") or if there was a real problem.

A friend-of-a-friend had a lead on a potential home for the little guy, which thrilled me. I brought Winston over to our house to get him out of the heat.  I also wanted to see how he would do with Mickey, Mo (my friendly, but sometimes overbearing Chihuahua), Jax (my sister's shy Sheltie), and Merlyn (my 17 year old cat). We stayed outside for a while and Winston just charmed the pants off of us. The other dogs didn't mind him, even though he is full of adolescent energy.

So, we brought him inside to see. He was very interested in Merlyn, following him and play-bowing every time Merlyn deigned to look in his direction. Merlyn, of course, was totally uninterested and let him know it in no uncertain terms.  My sister's "niece" (her best friend's daughter) came by with her very skittish Italian Greyhound bitch and Winston was great with both of them. He seems to have never met a stranger.

By the time we were ready for our evening walk, we had decided to keep Winston. I am pleased to say he's fitting in well. For the first few days, the other dogs were giving him a "puppy pass," making allowances for his lack of manners. Once they realized he was sticking around, they began to issue gentle corrections when he didn't follow the rules of the house. I'm pleased to say that Winston takes the corrections well and learns from them.

We went to the vet for a check-up and to get his first round of "puppy" shots. He weighed in at 23.7 pounds, which is just a little heavy for his size. He's taller than breed standard, so I think he'll be perfect if we can get him down to 22 pounds. Although we were assured that his shots were up-to-date, there was no paperwork to prove it and I'd rather err on the side of caution. He goes back in next week to get the rest of his shots, to be mirco-chipped and to be neutered.

Since Winston's previous owner didn't teach him much of anything, having him around is like having a small puppy... minus the house-training, thank goodness! I am, however, treating him as I would a new puppy: potty breaks after eating, naps, and play coupled with lots of praise and treats when he goes outside, just to reinforce his good habits. I'm starting his obedience work from scratch, though. This week, we're working mainly on SIT, DOWN, and STAND. When opportunities arise, I'm also shaping his OFF and ON. I'm proud to report that he is doing well. I hope to start taking video of his progress this week.

Socializing Your New Puppy

SOCIALIZING YOUR PUPPY

by Mareth Perry © 2010

1. Expose your puppy to a variety of surfaces for elimination, including grass, cement, potty pads, etc. Introduce a command such as “Quick! Quick!” or “Potty” during elimination. 
2. Accustom your puppy to having every part of her body handled in a gentle manner. Do this for several short periods every day. Praise her when she accepts your touch.
3. Create a schedule for feeding, naps, potty breaks, etc. Dogs thrive when things happen at predictable times. This will also make housebreaking much easier.
4. Expose your puppy to a variety of sounds as tolerated. Using sound effects CDs with the stereo volume set low is a great way to desensitize your puppy to sounds such as thunderstorms.
5. Accustom your puppy to being crated. Remember your puppy should view the crate as a safe place, not as punishment. Start slowly with just a few moments in the crate and build up to longer periods. Feeding your puppy while she's crated will help her to build positive associations.
6. Help your puppy to accept her collar and leash. Never use the collar or leash to pull or tug on your puppy. If she balks at moving, use a treat to lure her into going the direction you want her to move. 
7. Encourage your puppy to play gently. Avoid games such as tug-o-war and never allow her to bite any part of your body. Squealing like another pup would when she gets rough may be enough to discourage her from nipping. Praise her if she stops.8. Teach her to chew on appropriate items. Never allow her to play with things she won't be allowed to have as an adult. No chewing on shoes, leashes, clothing, etc. When she chews on something that she shouldn't, offer her a treat or an appropriate toy. Never pull something out of her mouth; she will view that as an invitation to play. Gently blowing in her nose will cause her to let go of forbidden items
8. Expose your puppy to walking on a variety of surfaces: tile, carpet, hardwood, concrete, sand, dirt, bricks, etc.
9. Accustom your puppy to riding in the car. Use a restraint system—either a crate or a seatbelt harness—to keep her safe.
10. Introduce your puppy to as many different people as you can. She should learn to be comfortable with people of different ages (from toddler to old age) and ethnicities, those wearing odd clothing (including hats and glasses), people with facial hair; as well as people using wheelchairs, walkers or crutches.
11. Accustom your puppy to wearing a vest. There are lightweight harnesses available at any pet store that will be a great introduction to the Service vest she will wear later.
12. Accustom your puppy to being groomed in a gentle manner.
13. Accustom your puppy to being bathed. Always use lukewarm water. A slip-proof mat in the tub will keep her from sliding around, which many dogs find frightening.
14. Build positive associations with your touch. Never physically punish your puppy.
15. Accustom your puppy to people running by, rollerblading, skateboarding and biking. Use high-value treats (like duck jerky) to refocus her attention on you.

PRODUCT REVIEW: The SingeTrak (TM) dog pack by Ruffwear

The SingleTrak(TM) is the pack I've been looking for!

Mickey, my GSD/Beagle mix, is very muscular and I have a hard time finding equipment that fits him well. He is 20" tall (at the withers), 20.5" long (back of neck to base of tail), with a 26" girth, and he weighs 48#.

I've tried other backpacks and they are too long, the pockets come down too far, or he looks like a packmule with the smallest of items stored inside them.

Not so, the SingleTrak! It fits him perfectly :) In addition to the water bladders, there is room for a 1 or 2# barbell in each of the large pockets for extra workout potential. I haven't figured out what (if anything) I would put in the smaller pockets...

I wasn't sure about the color when I ordered it, but I love the orange/grey combination now. The reflective trim is great; it would be difficult for someone not to see a dog wearing this pack, even in lower light.

The only con is that the straps don't stay properly adjusted. After a week of stopping every few yards to tighten the straps so the pack didn't shift from side to side, I finally gave up and bought stick-on Velcro dots to attach to the straps in order to keep them adjusted correctly.

The SingleTrak (TM) Pack is available online through RuffWear and may be available at local retail outlets, such as PetPeople.